Peptides: a small but mighty piece of the (skinhealth) pie

One quick glance at the ingredient list of any anti-aging skincare routine & you might find a peptide or two listed, perhaps more. In order to understand peptides & their functions, it’s important to understand the structural framework of the skin under the outer layer (epidermis). This layer under the epidermis is called the dermis & it is made up primarily of collagen & elastin proteins & fibers.

Peptides are protein messengers that signal the skin to start or stop natural processes. 

They are made up of chains of amino acids of 2 or more all the way up to 50. Amino acids can form millions of different peptides! A chain of 50+ amino acids is then considered a protein. So to recap: amino acids are precursors to peptides which are precursors to proteins. Collagen & elastin are then essential proteins for skin health. 

DI peptide =2

Tri peptide=3

What they do

To put it simply, they stimulate collagen! Think of Peptides as Regenerating ingredients & as the foundation to any age prevention skincare regimen. Regenerating ingredients help with regenerating collagen & elastin, the essential proteins that produce strong, supple, bouncy & resilient skin. This is crucial because it is estimated that adult skin loses 1% collagen on an annual basis starting at about age 25. If left without intervention, skin loses elasticity & will appear wrinkled, textured & dull. 

Peptides can accomplish a multitude of regenerating tasks such as reducing the breakdown of collagen & elastin by jumpstarting cellular mechanisms, stimulating communication between cells, aiding in wound healing, scavenging free radical & DNA damage. Essentially, peptides are key messengers that prevent skin cells from becoming sluggish, lazy, stagnant or dying off completely. The end result of this is increased firmness & elasticity in the skin in addition to regenerating collage.

Types of Peptides 

Peptides can be formulated to help a multitude of essential skin functions. For example some peptides are formulated to inhibit communication within the skin such as wrinkle relaxing peptides that help with suppressing certain muscle movements around the crows eyes area for firmer, less fine line & wrinkle appearance around the eyes. Peptides can help relax muscle contractions in other areas of the face & the neck. These are commonly known as neurotransmitter peptides.

Other peptides are formulated to help with mimicking naturally occurring processes within the skin. For example, peptides formulated to react the way growth factors would react towards inflammation (at reducing it). As well as peptides formulated to mimic glycosaminoglycans (GAGS) which help with maintaining moisture in the skin. 

Carrier peptides deliver trace elements necessary for wound healing such as copper peptides. Copper is a trace mineral which contains enzymes that are essential for collagen & elastin synthesis. 

Peptides can be synthetic & they can be plant based too. Peptides tend to have a fatty amino acid attached to it in order to stabilize it. Matrixyl is a common trademarked peptide with a fatty acid attached that enhances its penetration capabilities. 

Because peptides are unstable, oxygen will oxidize them if they are openly exposed. It’s important to shop for peptides that are in airless pump packaging as well as dark packaging otherwise exposure to UV light can break them down.

Who benefits / who should use them

Peptides should start being introduced into your skincare regimen if you are at least age 25. After the age of 25 they should be more present if not the foundation in someone’s regimen because they are essential collagen stimulators & collagen production needs to be amped up in the 30s, 40s, 50s & beyond. Peptides can be extremely nourishing, barrier building & reinforcing for the skin, & can also improve the penetration of other actives. They can bind to water making them humectant & moisturizing. When ingredients have this effect they improve hydration of the skin allowing the skin to be plumped & radiant. 

How to incorporate peptides into your routine

Peptides are predominantly found in serums & moisturizers. A product's delivery system can aid in determining how to choose your peptides. Serums contain molecularly smaller ingredients that are able to penetrate deeper than a moisturizer. Generally speaking any peptide product should be layered underneath thicker products in order for the layers within the skin to really receive those signaling & communicating peptides. 

Also beware any skincare product that may claim it contains “Collagen”. As mentioned previously, collagen is a protein & molecularly larger than peptides. Since proteins are large molecules they simply can not penetrate the skin, they just lay on top of the skin & at best moisturize the skin. Anything claiming it contains collagen in a jar or pump could be over promising & under delivering. 

If fine lines, wrinkles & texture are a main skin concern, you want to pair in office treatments with homecare that contains peptides to protect the investment of those in office treatments. 

Peptide products I recommend

Revision Skincare Revox™ 7 This serum features 7 different peptides at clincal levels to address the appearance of 7 types of expression lines. After 12 weeks of use, it is clinically proven to soften facial lines & facial wrinkles. 

For a more targeted approach or to spot treat, Revision Skincare Revox™ Line Relaxer is a highly targeted for horizontal & vertical lines around the eyes that pairs well with neuromodulators like Botox. 

Revision Skincare Nectifirm® is another great targeted approach for the neck! It features a blend of 5 peptides all clinically shown to improve aging signs on the neck, decolletage & jawline. This is one key product EVERYONE should consider as the neck ages very differently than the rest of the face. It’s better to prevent rather than correct & the neck often goes neglected. 

CLEARSTEM BOUNCEBACK™ "No Botox Serum" is a great peptide starter serum that features 3 different peptides. This serum helps to fill in fine lines, wrinkles & acne scars. Bonus points because it can also be used on the neck & it also helps to extend the life of existing neuromodulators. 

Final Thoughts

Peptides can sound like the end all be all but keep in mind they are just a piece of the puzzle. Know that if you are  investing in peptides you should protect your investment. You want to still be regularly using SPF & using daily topical antioxidants. Controlling exposure to extrinsic aging factors such as UVA/UVB & eliminating if not cutting back smoking & drinking.